Euro 2024 Diary: Drenched in Dortmund
A memorable day at the rain-lashed Westfalen as Turkey beat Georgia
You knew it was a momentous day in Dortmund when you encountered lines of stationary, post-match traffic - cars and people clad in red and white flags, and drivers beeping their horns relentlessly.
Many passengers hung out of vehicle windows, shouting and hollering with delight, waving their flags, along with, it has to be said, plenty of drivers too.
While Tuesday’s weather in windswept North Rhine-Westphalia was akin to having someone throw a bucket of water over you, continually - to the point where your feet squelched so badly in your trainers, you actually considered walking barefoot in the fast flowing streams of water that flowed around this 81,000 stadium - yet, the memorable atmosphere, colour, noise and the passion in around the Westfalen certainly made up for the trenchfoot visitors had to endure.
It’s not just Old Trafford that leaks then…CREDIT:
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From Antwerp to the Autobahn
An early start from Antwerp saw us depart Belgium, skirt round The Netherlands, before entering Germany, all in the space of a couple of hours, and all without an official border crossing [insert own Brexiteer/Remoaner comment here] to arrive in Dortmund late morning.
We’d chosen a cheap AirBnB that was a 20 minute walk to the stadium, and parked up. Martin, the bespectacled owner, came out to greet us, also informing us that we had to turn the car around to face the same way as the traffic, due to German bylaws.
It was so perplexing as to be reassuring, that strict and seemingly pointless Teutonic rules were to be adhered to. I would have almost been disappointed not to have been told that you couldn’t park your car in any direction you wanted by that stage.
A brisk walk through the forested part of the Westfalen - literally West-field - presented us with one of my favourite stadiums on the planet: Westfalenstadion. Or to give it the tedious sponsors’ name: Signal Iduna Park.
Of course, UEFA weren’t going to give any concessions to rogue advertising. Nor, having commandeered the ground, were they going to allow free movement around the stadium for ‘security reasons.’ Which was a shame, as strolling around a continental ground at an international tournament - or any game for that matter - is a fun thing to do, as you get to witness such different sights at times.
Although, to be fair, we did manage to see plenty of pyro and flares being lit, as well as red and white flags, drums, and general excitement with impenetrable - to an English ear at least - songs and deep, booming chants.
Before the deluge. Turkey and Georgia fans mix freely before kick-off. CREDIT:
UEFA accreditation then had to be picked up. Via a Policewoman first scanning my passport, prior to a kindly man in a green volunteers’ jacket informing me that my name wasn’t down and I wasn’t coming in. Or words to that effect.
I always seem to get this at European games. The last time funnily enough was at the Allianz Arena before covering Bayern Munich vs Arsenal in the Champions League last month. Where I had to basically point out to the administrator in the booth that my name was actually on their list, and, that I was, in fact, ‘coming in.’
The trick I’ve learned through years of experience at being sorely tested by bureaucracy, is to remain calm, and offer a smile, as if to say: ‘No problem, I know ‘computer says no’ but I am really a journalist on your list. It’s just that you are too stupid/lazy/incompetent/snarly/annoying’ to bother looking properly.’
Such mild mannered stoicism normally does the trick, and after about ten minutes of piteous insistence I am somewhere on their supercomputer, or clipboard/notepad/A4 sheet of paper/screen/laptop/tablet, they eventually managed to locate my name and publication, and the gates to Eden are magically opened.
Accreditation for Euro 2024. CREDIT: Layth (@laythy29)
I bumped into a photographer I know, chatting about hangovers and travel plans, before she told me glumly: ‘Heavy rain is expected.' When sports photographers - who mostly spend their lives and careers working outside, open to the elements - tell you the weather is going to be bad, then you *know* it’s going to be positively biblical.
And so it proved. I got absolutely soaked on the walk from the accreditation centre to the ground.
I got so wet even the elastic on my boxers shorts was as if it was found on the Titanic’s final survivor. I tried to find cover. I ran for shelter under a roof attached to a portacabin. Only to find it was a stall selling branded UEFA© merchandise.
Most normal people wouldn’t have batted an eyelid. But, as anyone who knows me well, knows that I have an unusual penchant for buying tat.
It’s as if I become fevered at the thought that I might miss out on a branded keyring of Albart, or a fridge magnet shaped like the European Championship. Anyway, dear reader, I spent a not inconsiderable amount of Euros on utter tat. I even bought a reversible hat, thinking it would save me from the worst of the rain, which by now was lashing down in stair rods.
UEFA branded hat complete with label still attached outside the Westfalen. Models’ own. CREDIT:
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Inside the stadium, it was vaguely amusing to learn that Old Trafford isn’t the only stadium that leaks as torrents of rain cascaded down from the Westfalen roof (see first picture on this post).
What was less amusing was the pre-match scrap between a number of Georgia and Turkey fans at a corner of the ground before the riot police moved in to separate the fighting factions shortly afterwards. From my vantage point in the press box on the other side of the ground, watching such momentary idiocy was second on my mind to drying my soaked feet, socks and trainers.
The Riot Police turn up to break up momentary fighting between a very small number from sets of fans - the vast majority of which it must be said were well-behaved throughout. CREDIT:
As kick-off approached it was clear the atmosphere was set to be incredible.
And as the national anthems were sung loudly and proudly by both sets of supporters - while taking time to lustily jeer their counterparts version at ear-splitting levels - the noise levels reached fever pitch. Where they were to stay for the entire 90 minutes.
Levels of delirium abounded after Turkey had won.
Not to mention the dual carriageway which skirts the Westfahlen that I walked next to hours after the match had ended that was packed full of thrilled and ecstatic Turkey fans.
Lines of stationary, post-match traffic - cars and people clad in red and white flags, and drivers beeping their horns relentlessly.
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No pyro no party. Turkey fans light flares inside the Westfalen during their 3-1 victory over Georgia. CREDIT:
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DAILY LIST:
My cousin Paul has just gone for a run in an area we are now labelling the ‘Westfalen Forest’ while I enjoy the rare treat of sitting in my pants with a cup of tea while trying to locate a TV channel that will show the football. Or any football for that matter.
We’re then planning on getting a tram into town for a few beers via the German National Football Museum.
What could possibly go wrong before we set off for Frankfurt and England vs Denmark to catch up with old pals early on Thursday?
Tune in tomorrow to find out.
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Anyway, if you’re interested, here’s my official match report for the Morning Star newspaper.
Turkey 3-1 Georgia: Euro 2024 report from Dortmund by Layth Yousif
Mert Muldur and Real Madrid wonderkid Arda Guler provided a brace of contenders for Goal of the Tournament, to help Vincenzo Montella's Turkey start with a win at a rain-lashed but hugely atmospheric Westfahlen on Tuesday.
Despite Georges Mikautadze equalising with Georgia's first goal at a major tournament, Turkey broke their opponents hearts on their European Championship debut in an enthralling Group F clash in northern Germany.
For one day only, Dortmund's Yellow Wall in the former mining region of North Rhine-Westphalia morphed into a red one instead, as tens of thousands of Turkish fans packed the famous end.
The noise levels throughout the match were powered by Turkey's booming support, which surely also featured descendants of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) including Turkish mine workers who emigrated to West Germany and the old colliery city of Dortmund in the 1960s and 1970s.
It is estimated that more than seven per cent of Dortmund's population is of Turkish heritage - with this exciting match played out at relentlessly deafening levels of decibels, ensuring the contest became the closest Turkey will ever know to a home match outside their borders, until they stage a tournament.
On manager Vincenzo Montella's 50th birthday the side, powered by German-born players including captain Hakan Calhanoglu and starters Kaan Ayhan and Kenan Yildiz, picked up three valuable points in sodden conditions.
In a frenzied opening Turkey hit the woodwork through a low effort from Gelsenkirchen-born Ayhan that struck Georgia keeper Giorgi Mamardashvilli’s right hand post, before racing along the goalline and away, as the Turkey fans behind the goal made an almighty racket.
Georgia then swept upfield to see Anzor Mekvabiahvilli forcing Turkey keeper Mert Gunok into a smart save.
Yet Turkey's early dominance eventually saw Austria Vienna's 25-year-old right-back Muldur give Turkey the lead in the 25th minute, with an outstanding volley into the top corner that left Georgia goalkeeper Mamardashvili with no chance.
No sooner had blazing bright pyro been lit in the Red Wall in celebration of going 1-0 up, Regensburg-born Yildiz thought he had doubled the lead, but the goal was ruled out by VAR for offside.
Willy Sagnol's valiant Georgia - playing in a Euros for the first time - battled bravely, refusing to be cowed by the onslaught, deservedly grabbing a leveller seven minutes later.
Sagnol - who was part of the French squad that won the World Cup in 2006 - and who, fascinatingly, selected peripatetic wanderer and former York City boss Dave Webb to be his assistant, saw his side equalise in front of their adoring fans. Ligue 2 Metz forward Mikautadze scoring Georgia's first goal in a major tournament after expertly guiding Giorgi Kochorashvili's cross into the near corner.
Cue pandemonium amid the white-shirted Georgia contingent, many clad in red and white crosses in honour of St George, the patron saint of their proud country. Yes, the same saint as England. Stick that in your pipe and explain away Nigel Farage. The equaliser also unleashed a fevered cacophony of boos from furious Turkish fans.
Sagnol's Georgia started the second half brightly, with Napoli’s talented winger and Serie A winner Khivicha Kvartskhelia a livewire down the left flank, complete with socks evocatively rolled round his ankles.
However, in the 65th minute, Real Madrid forward Guler made it 2-1 with a superb long-range effort into the top corner.
The 19-year-old Guler, became only the third teenager to score on his first appearance at the European Championships - following Ferenc Bene for Hungary against Spain in 1964 and Cristiano Ronaldo for Portugal against Greece in 2004 - with his excellent 20-yard strike that sent the Red Wall and much of the stadium into ear-splitting raptures.
Amid frenzied celebrations Guler - who has been dubbed the Turkish 'Messi' - also became the youngest player to score on his European Championship debut.
Guler joined Los Blancos from Fenerbahce last July, and, after initially struggling to adapt to his new surroundings at the Bernabeu, ended the season on a high, with five goals in five league matches to win La Liga - while also becoming the first Turkish player to lift the Champions League, albeit as an unused substitute during Madrid's 2-0 victory over Dortmund at Wembley last month.
As the clock ticked down many of Sagnol's indomitable side lay prone on the drenched turf in despair when Kochorashvili missed a glorious late opportunity, having earlier hit the bar.
In a hectic climax to a memorable match, Georgia also struck the post and had a goalbound effort from Budu Zivzivadze blocked by Samet Akaydin in the 95th minute.
But just as Argentine referee Facundo Tello - whose firm but fair officiating was understatedly excellent throughout - was preparing to blow the final whistle, Turkey confirmed their triumph.
Substitute Kerem Akturkoglu, with virtually the last kick of the game, broke clear to slot into an empty net after Georgia keeper Mamardashvili had come up for a corner, to make it 3-1 and seal a memorable victory on a day to remember.