Euro 2024 Diary: Crackling in Cologne

A memorable Sunday lunch in Cologne's busy Aldstadt is the prelude to a good night out

Happy Monday,

Hope your start to the week hasn’t been too bad,

It’s been gloriously sunny here in Cologne, and we took the opportunity of exploring the Aldstadt (old town) on Sunday.

The bars were packed with football fans.

Germans gearing up to watch their team take on Switzerland that evening, along with an ever-growing number of England fans arriving here ahead of Tuesday’s final Group C match with Slovenia.

We even spotted a single, bedraggled, drunken Scot, collapsed in a tuk-tuk, croaking ‘No Scotland, no party’, a survivor from Scotland’s 1-1 draw with Switzerland here last Thursday. He didn’t look well. But we’re pretty sure he’d enjoyed himself this week. Let’s face it when your team always disappoints, turning to drink must be the preferred option.

Speaking of Scottish fans, walking back through Nieumarkt in the early hours of Sunday, returning from Belgium 2-0 Romania at Mungersdorf, a collection of Scottish fans were merrily showing just what was underneath their kilts, to a strangely adoring set of Belgium and Romania fans.

Believe me, it wasn’t pretty, but it was all done in fun, amid high spirits here in this town that has a reputation for hard partying.

We stopped for a bite to eat.

Well, when we say a bite, it would have been if we’d had teeth the size of a Gigantasaurus.

We opted for a pork knuckle with sauerkraut in one of the atmospheric, traditional old bars in the Aldstadt.

The pork knuckle was absolutely huge. We’d still be eating it now if we weren’t so hungry.

As you can see, it was massive. And flavoursome. The soft flesh was cooked to perfection, falling off the bone, which, allied with crunchy, salty texture of the crackling made it a memorable meal. Even the sauerkraut was fun.

Lunch was a stone’s throw away from the Cologne fanzone.

Although having visited my first fan park last week in Dortmund, I was in no rush to return, presumably to chat with more random items of fruit.

What does happen when you watch England abroad is that, wherever you are, you meet a large number of fellow football fans, from all parts of the country.

In our bar, there were lads from Bristol, blokes from Middlesbrough, guys from Gillingham, as well as a table of jaunty Romanians, one of whom, said he lived in Leamington Spa.

Normally life is so busy, I don’t get much of a chance to sit and chew the fat (literally, given our pork lunch), so the opportunity to chat football with people, while drinking beers in the sun, in a picturesque old town, is my idea of a very good time.

Suffice to say we carried on until about 3am, following by a kebab. And a currywurst. And a falafel. I really must get back to the gym when we leave Germany.

……….

DAILY LIST

Gearing up to cover Spain vs Albania in nearby Dusseldorf, which will also be a new ground for me.

Public transport is free in Germany on the day of a game. Which is nice. I don’t think I’ve ever paid for public transport in the near three decades I’ve been coming to Germany to watch football.

Must say I’m really looking forward to watching Spain this evening. Luis de la Fuente’s side have impressed so far, beating Croatia 3-0 and reigning Euro champs Italy 1-0, and have their best team since 2012. Can’t wait to take a look at exciting youngsters Nico Williams and Lamine Yamal do their stuff down the flanks.

Although, having been to Albania to catch up with a good pal who hails from the county, last winter, I was captivated by the vibrancy of Tirana, as well as its history, so will be keen to see if former Gunner Sylvinho can steer his team to the second round, as one of the best third place qualifiers, so it’s all to play for.

PS:

I really must spend less time on my phone….